K&N Powersports Air Filters for the Harley Davidson XLH1000 Sportster Harley Davidson XLH1000 Sportster Replacement Air Filters Help your Harley Davidson XLH1000 Sportster run better. 1985 Harley Davidson XLH1000 Sportster 61 CI Air Filter 1984 Harley Davidson XLH1000 Sportster 61 CI Air Filter 1983 Harley Davidson XLH1000 Sportster 61 CI Air Filter 1982 Harley Davidson XLH1000 Sportster 61 CI Air Filter 1981 Harley Davidson XLH1000 Sportster 61 CI Air Filter 1980 Harley Davidson XLH1000 Sportster 61 CI Air Filter 1979 Harley Davidson XLH1000 Sportster 61 CI Air Filter 1978 Harley Davidson XLH1000 Sportster 61 CI Air Filter 1977 Harley Davidson XLH1000 Sportster 61 CI Air Filter 1976 Harley Davidson XLH1000 Sportster 61 CI Air Filter 1975 Harley Davidson XLH1000 Sportster 61 CI Air FilterUpgrade your Harley Davidson XLH1000 Sportster today with a K&N .Tuning your Harley Davidson carburetor is simpler than most think and can be performed with a few common tools.

This simple procedure is a great Harley tech tip that applies to all Harley carbs from 1989 to present that use the CV style  Harley Davidson carburetor. Earlier models equipped with the older butterfly style carbs (pre-89 Evo’s, Shovelheads, Pans, and Ironheads) are excellent candidates for upgrading to a modern Harley carburetor. Preparing the carburetor for tuning will require removal from your Harley-Davidson’s engine but this is easily accomplished. Begin by shutting off the petcock fuel valve and starting the engine to allow all fuel within the carburetor bowl to be emptied. Remove the aircleaner assembly including the backing plate which is attached to each head with a banjo bolt. This is a good time to inspect these bolts for obstructions in their passages. Remove the choke cable from it’s mounting bracket on the opposite side of the bike.Be sure to install a new set of spark plugs when tuning. Note:  Before proceeding to rejet your carburetor it is recommended that you perform the following tuning procedure.

Having the mixture properly tuned is critical to making this carburetor perform and should always be performed prior to or at the same time you rejet the carb. The choke cable can stay attached to the carburetor during this procedure, simply detach the knob end from the horm bracket. Disconnect the fuel line from the fuel inlet on the carburetor or the opposite end connected to the fuel petcock, whichever is simpler to access. The hose is likely fastened using a special crimped clamp. This may be cut or pried off to remove since you won’t be using it again. Be sure to have a new hose clamp available. Next loosen both throttle cables from their adjusters located just beyond where they exit the throttle grip. A couple turns is usually all it takes to give you enough slack. If you count how many turns each adjuster is loosened then you can return them to the exact adjustment when reinstalling your carb. This is a good time to label each cable to avoid any confusion when reconnecting them to the carb’s throttle cam.

A simple “Top” and “Bottom” should suffice when tagging each cable. Now that you have enough slack in the cables you can pull the carburetor away from the manifold. A Harley carb is only held to the manifold with a slip fit rubber manifold boot. air purifier supplier in dubaiGently rock or twist the carb back and forth as you pull it away from the engine. oreck air purifier saleRemove the cables that you tagged and remove any vacuum hoses. ionizer air purifier comparisonIf your model has multiple vacuum hoses it would be a good idea to label these as well. With the carb removed, place upside down on a sturdy work surface. Do not remove the bowl at this point to prevent debris from entering the carburetor. Tip:  To keep from drilling too far into the plug, it has been suggested to wind electrical tape around your drill bit quite a few times about 3/16?

Pry the plug out using a pick or awl. You can also thread a sheet metal screw into the drilled hole and use this to pull the plug out. Now that the plug is removed clean the area around the mixture screw so no metal fragments remain. At this point there are two methods for adjusting the mixture. Adjustment Method:  Using a small flat head screwdriver turn the screw clockwise until it gently seats. DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN AS THIS WILL DAMAGE THE NEEDLE SCREW. Count how many turns it takes to reach the closed position. Mark the screwdriver if needed to properly count each turn. This is your base starting point and alone will allow your idle mixture to be slightly richer than the factory’s EPA setting. In many cases this will be the ideal setting. As an alternative to adjusting the mixture screw with a screwdriver, many prefer using an  EZ-Just mixture screw to ease adjustments and fine tuning.Now turn the screw outward 2 turns to establish a starting point. The same procedure applies if using an EZ-Just screw.

While the carburetor is off it is a good time to inspect the vacuum slide. The slide should move up and down freely. A gradual closing action is acceptable but should not hang up or stutter as it closes. If the slide hangs or has trouble returning to a closed position further inspection or replacement may be required. Reinstall the carburetor back on your bike by reversing the steps taken during removal. Be sure to replace the fuel hose clamp and vacuum lines. It may be a matter of dexterity but I prefer to install the cables before pushing the carb back onto the manifold. Make certain the carb firmly seats back onto the manifold boot. Double check each hose and connection. The air cleaner assembly MUST be installed prior to starting the engine, not only to hold the carburetor in place but to prevent having the carb backfire in your face while tuning. The modified carburetor should allow your bike to run well enough for a mild test run around the block to speed up the warm-up process.

With the engine warmed up and at idle you may now fine tune the idle mixture screw for optimal performance. Acquainting yourself with the adjustment screw location at the bottom rear of the carburetor prior to running the engine is advised, which also prevents burning your hands. You are working with the screw upside down so check to make sure you are turning the screw clockwise or inward. Note:  Be careful NOT to allow the mixture screw to fall out as there is a very small spring, washer, and o-ring that will fall out as well. These items known as the  mixture screw packing kit  are not available from the dealer or manufacturer, however if you should lose these parts there is an aftermarket replacement kit available here. If the engine will not idle on its own during this procedure, adjust the idle set screw on the throttle side of the carburetor until it idles correctly. If backfiring occurs through the carburetor then adjust the idle mixture screw out another 1/8 turn.

Normally, the mixture screw should only require 2 to 3 turns. /* harley-performance 300 */ Optimal setting on most Harley’s is approximately 1/4 turn clockwise when backed out from the point of backfiring (coughing).Take your newly tuned bike for a ride and note how it idles and responds off idle. If you experience any coughing through the carburetor, adjust the mixture out another 1/8 of a turn.Black smoke seen from the exhaust at idle or a feeling of sluggishness off idle indicates you may have set the mixture too rich. If your bike is now idling steady and responds well from a start then you are all set. If your engine still runs lean you should move on to  rejetting your carburetor.The same stock Harley Davidson carburetor has been used on all production bikes from 1989 to 2006 due to it’s reliability and ability to adapt to different conditions. With just the right amount of tuning there’s no reason why you can’t have some of the same performance gains advertised by the major racing carb manufacturers.