Used Parts Finder Store CJ7Make:Model:Year:Part:Over 35 MILLION Auto PartsNationwide Network! FREE Shipping!1-866-612-9798Used Jeep CJ7 Parts Finder To read more about Used Parts Finder Store, please visit our Information page. We are ready to help you find parts for all Jeep CJ7 models and years. After submitting your part search, you will receive price quotes directly from the sellers (i.e. Jeep salvage yards, junk yards, Jeep car part stores, etc.). Note all the Jeep part price quotes are negotiable to an extent, so do not walk out from a deal before trying to barter with the seller. For example, if you get a price quote on a or for your Jeep CJ7 that is only in a fair condition, you may be able negotiate the price down. In general, your used Jeep CJ7 part will cost you about half the price of a new Jeep CJ7 genuine part. FYI: Junkyards and auto salvage yard dismantle whole assemblies such as Brake Master Cylinder, Quarter Glass, Bumper Guard (Front), Wiper Transmission, Engine Oil Cooler, Ring and Pinion,

Engine Oil Cooler, Starter Solenoid, Flywheel, Mirror, Rear View, Truck Bed, Power Window Switch, Front End Assembly, Seat Belt, Stub Axle (Rear), Upper Control Arm (Front), Sliding Door, Convertible Top Lift,This kind of parts is a good candidate for a quality used replacement part. Another good candidate for quality used replacement OE part could be an expensive audio system, car speaker, CD Changer, CD Player, Radio, Stereo Set, Computer and other sound equipment, Use your common sense when buying used replacement car and truck parts. Note: We do not recommend buying used Jeep CJ7 inexpensive mechanical, service parts, or labor-intensive parts as candidates for QRP. Save yourself time, money and frustration - Do not buy used Jeep CJ7 mechanical/repair parts such as Impulse Transmitter Kit, Brake Backing Plate, Gear Shift Lever, Water Pump Bolt, Exhaust Buffer, Ball Joint Eccentric, Thermo Contact, Front Panel, Fuel Solenoid, Line Card, Speedometer Drive, Carburetor Float Kit,

Adapter Screw, Cruise Control Cable, Cam Tower Bearing Set, Blower Motor Housing, Selector Rod Spacer, Carburetor Screen,Note you can buy a new aftermarket mechanical part for a little bit more money but without the likelihood of failure after installation. Used Jeep CJ7 Parts Classified Ads - Sample Listings1. Connecticut - 1985 Jeep CJ7 - fuse box - fuse block/box mounted through firewall2. Maryland - 1986 Jeep CJ7 - Axle Beam, Rear - dana 44 with 3.31 ratio fits 1986 jeep cj. would like complete rear.3. California - 1984 Jeep CJ7 - Top cover assembly - T176, T1774. Florida - 1981 Jeep CJ7Utah - 1979 Jeep CJ7 - power steering mounting bracket - power steering mounting bracket7. New Jersey - 1986 Jeep CJ7South Carolina - 1977 Jeep CJ7 - Body tub - Rust free dent free body tub9. Michigan - 1979 Jeep CJ7 - Flywheel - Flywheel for AMC 304 V-810. Ohio - 1983 Jeep CJ7Illinois - 1981 Jeep CJ7Maryland - 1985 Jeep CJ7 - Axle Housing - rear axel housing AMC 2014. 

Texas - 1982 Jeep CJ7 - Air Cleaner - Looking for offset air cleaner for jeeps with power brakes16. Colorado - 1981 Jeep CJ7 - Air Pump - pump, hoses, pulley, mounting bracket, has power steering17.  - Air Pump - pump, hoses, mounting bracket and pulley needed, has power steering18. California - 1986 Jeep CJ7gamo .177 cleaning kit - Engine Long Block19. epa air purifiers ozoneTexas - 1980 Jeep CJ7air duct cleaning mission viejo caNew Jersey - 1984 Jeep CJ7 - Stub Axle, Rear - AMC 20 WIDE TRACK 3.5422. Oregon - 1979 Jeep CJ7 - adapter plate - th 400 trans to the 1339 quadra trac t case adapter23. Pennsylvania - 1977 Jeep CJ7South Carolina - 1980 Jeep CJ7 - transmission - transmissionArkansas - 1981 Jeep CJ7

- shifter lever - Shifter Lever26. Pennsylvania - 1980 Jeep CJ7New Mexico - 1985 Jeep CJ7 - Door Glass, Front - Passenger side vent window replacement29.  - Door Window Regulator, Front30. Arizona - 1984 Jeep CJ7Arizona - 1986 Jeep CJ7Florida - 1979 Jeep CJ7New Jersey - 1985 Jeep CJ7 - Body Tub - Looking for original 1983-1986 CJ Tub for a CJ7 good condition, no rust or rot. 34. Texas - 1978 Jeep CJ7Texas - 1977 Jeep CJ7Florida - 1986 Jeep CJ7 - Engine Long Block37. Florida - 1978 Jeep CJ7 - Rear output shaft it has 10 splines - I am looking for a rear output shaft for a dana 20 transfer case 1978 model38. Iowa - 1980 Jeep CJ7Virginia - 1977 Jeep CJ7 - Engine Short Block - Air Injector manifold and six ported bolts to attach to exhaust manifold40. Maine - 1977 Jeep CJ7The Jeep 258 (4.2L) I6 isn't a power house, but it has gobs of low RPM torque that makes it a great engine off-road. The most common problem I see with the engine is it's inability to idle.

in my '81 CJ-7 and a couple friends that have 258 equipped Wranglers, I have fixed this problem half a dozen times and the cause of the problem has always been the same. The problem has always been caused by clogged idle tubes that cause fuel to drip out of the venturis and make the Jeep run rich at idle. Fixing the problem is relatively easy and once you get past this problem, you will get much more enjoyment from the 258 and the Carter BBD The Carter BBD is a two barrel carburetor that was available on late 70s to late 80s Jeeps with the 4.2L engine. There are two variations of the carburetor, one is computer controlled and has a stepper motor on the back side. The computer controlled version was used after 1981. Other than that, the two versions are the same although it seems the stepper motor version is a bit more troublesome. The symptoms of the problem include stumbling and sputtering atIn advanced cases, the Jeep will stall at every stop sign

and will only run at high RPMs. Gas mileage will suffer since fuel will just be sloshing out at idle. will be turned up to a high RPM to avoid the problem. the Jeep will run fine at higher RPMs (unless there are also For a sure diagnosis, park the Jeep with the engine off and remove the air cleaner cover. There should be a plate over the throat of the carb, the choke plate. If you open the choke plate you should be able to see down the throat of the carb and you should see two screws with holes in the middle of them. Next to them are two passages with a nozzle in the middle of each. known as the venturi, when air passes by, fuel is supposed to be drawn out through the nozzles. If the idle tubes are clogged fuel will drip from those nozzles during idle. In order to see if fuel drips from the nozzles at idle, you must start your Jeep with the air cleaner cover off and look down the throat of the carb. The Jeep Technical Service Manual recommends

that, when you do this, you cover the air cleaner with a piece of plexiglass since the engine can backfire through the carb and a flame can shoot out. Since I am reckless and like living dangerously, I never do this. After you have chosen the wise or foolish path, start your Jeep and open the choke plate. If your idle tubes are badly clogged, you will see fuel dripping from the nozzles at idle (if your Jeep will idle at all.) If you don't see fuel dripping, but your idle is still poor, open the throttle a bit with your hand or have a friend hit the accelerator. You should see two even streams of fuel and no dripping from the nozzles. means clogged idle tubes. While you are doing this, make sure you don't put your hand or anything else into rotating parts like the fan. Keep your tie away from that thing (some people just want to look good all the time.) if you are a "long hair, freaky" Tesla type. I've heard some bad stories.

Neither removal of the carburetor nor a complete rebuild is necessary to fix the problem. To fix the problem, start with you Jeep off and Smooth idle should have returned after this simple process. still have idle problems and don't have any dripping, make sure all the vacuum hoses are hooked up and in good shape. Also check for leaks around the intake manifold or a loose carburetor. To avoid repeated clogged idle tubes, drill out the idle tubes toThis will greatly reduce the frequency of clogging and it is a procedure that was actually recommended by Jeep for a while. An alternative to removing the choke plate and all is to just remove the top of the carburetor. The advantage of this approach is you can make sure there isn't a lot of junk in the bowls, you can check yourIt also may help if you have power brakes because the master cylinder may be in the way of getting the choke rod out. Thanks to Randy Peterson for posting this solution a few years