2 ton capacity:Lift range from 15-1/2 - 72" (39.4 to 183 cm)For raising, lowering and transporting heavy loadsHeavy duty steel contructionSix heavy - duty castors for easy manouverability (4 swivel and 2 rigid)51" (129.5 cm) legs detach for compact storage in built-in slotsFolds for easy storageCan be used in conjunction with 1500 lbs Engine Leveler (09-1089), not included4 Boom lengths, where corresponding capacities are 0.5, 1, 1.5, and 2 ton.May not be exactly as shown Click here to order! BMW E53 X5 models utilize a heater control valve that controls the flow of hot coolant to the heater core. If your vehicle has no heat and the cooling system is properly bled, the valve may be faulty (stuck closed). You may also have a situation where the vehicle has heat all the time. This may be a valve that is stuck open. In this tech article, I will show you how to replace and test your heater control valve.Drain the cooling system. See our tech article on cooling system draining and filling.

This photo shows the location of the heater control valve (green arrow). It is located at the left side of the firewall, above the heater hoses. To replace the heater control valve, start by removing the heater hoses (green arrows) from the plastic mount (yellow arrow). Then disconnect the electrical connector by pressing the release tab (red arrow) and pulling it off the valve. Then, pull the heater valve out of the mount. Pull the front out first, upward. Continue to lift the valve out of the bracket at an angle toward the engine (red arrow), while pulling it out of the rear mount. Be careful not to lose the rubber mounting grommets (yellow arrows). Loosen all three heater hose clamps (green arrows). Then, remove the front heater hose. If your vehicle has standard climate control, there will be only two hoses. With the front hose removed (green arrow) you now have a little more room to grab the rear hoses. Remove both rear hoses, noting installation position.

Remove the heater valve from the vehicle and install the hoses on the new one. Then install the heater valve into the mount and connect the electrical connector. When installing, feed the valve into the bracket in the direction of the green arrow. Be sure that the lower mounting tab (red arrow) is properly engaged. Then install the valve into the rubber grommets (yellow arrows). Fill and bleed the cooling system. com spt hepa air purifier with ion flow technology whiteOnce complete, double check all the hose connections and check the engine for coolant leaks.philips air purifier ac4012 review Testing the heater control valve:air purifier neotec xj 3800 Testing the heater control valve: The heater control valve is normally open (allowing coolant to flow to the heater core) and closed when the temp setting is on COLD.

There is a small plunger (green arrow) that seals the valve when the solenoid receives the correct electrical signal. This plunger can become restricted, reducing coolant flow. The electrical portion can also fail, creating a situation where you have heat all the time. Testing the heater control valve: The inlet for the heater control valve (green arrow)is in the front (red arrow). Hot coolant flows from the engine crankcase to the valve. It then flows through the valve out the back to the heater core (yellow arrow). A quick check would be to confirm hot coolant is entering the valve at the front hose (red arrow) and into the heater core through the rear hose (yellow arrow). Testing the heater control valve: The following steps will show you how to test the electrical signal to the valve. If you do not have coolant flow through the valve, and the voltage is correct, replace the valve. Working at the heater control valve, squeeze both release tabs and pull the connector straight off to remove it.

On my vehicle the brown wire (yellow arrow) is a constant ground and the tan / orange and tan / brown wires are the battery volt controls from the HVAC control head. To test the signal to the valve, I will connect a digital volt meter across the terminals and test the voltage. Start by turning the HVAC temperature control to full hot (green arrows). Then turn the ignition to the RUN position. Then connect your DVOM across the terminals. Your DVOM should about read Zero volts (blue arrow). Next, rotate the HVAC temperature control to full cold, with the ignition in the RUN position. Your DVOM across the terminals should read BATTERY+ volts. These steps show a properly working circuit. If you are missing a voltage signal, check that the ground to the valve is good. Then check the battery volts signal back to the HVAC control head. When you're done, reassemble the items and confirm that the wiring is routed as it was before. View Cart & CheckOut |  Recommend this page to a friend...

Copyright © Pelican Parts Inc.Thank you, you will be emailed when this product comes back in stock. Back in stock alert Enter your email below to receive immediate notification when this item is back in stock.The requested URL /index.php?cPath=69 was not found on this server.Revised by BoatUS editors in April 2012Surface scratches can be buffed out of gelcoat with polishing compound, but deep scratches must be filled. When the gelcoat surrounding a scratch is in good condition, the filler of choice is gelcoat paste, which provides both filler and finish in a single application--but not a single step. Because the surface of the cured paste will be uneven, sanding and polishing are required to smooth the repair and blend it with the rest of the hull. Except for color matching, gelcoat repairs are easy and straightforward.You will find gelcoat available as both a resin and in a thicker putty form called paste. For scratch repair you want paste. Repair kits comprised of a small amount of gelcoat paste and hardener, a selection of pigments, mixing sticks, and sealing film can be purchased for less than $20.

Buy a flexible plastic spreader if you don't already have one. You will also need sheets of 150-, 220-, 400-, and 600-grit wet-or-dry sandpaper. A single sheet of each will be more than ample to fair all the paste in a repair kit.The hardest part of a repair to the surface of a fiberglass boat is matching the color. Professionals who do gelcoat repairs daily still have difficulty getting a perfect match. Even "factory" colors don't match exactly after a boat has been in the sun for a few years.White has the significant advantage of being fairly easy to match, and once a small repair is buffed out to a gloss, shading differences will be unnoticeable. Matching colored hulls is somewhat more challenging.A color-sample card from your local paint store that matches your hull can provide valuable help. Ask the store clerk the formula; they custom-mix the color by adding tints to a white base. The formula may call for a half-dozen different tints, but the important ones are those specified in the largest quantities.

You can use the tints in your repair kit to approximate the formula.Always color gelcoat paste before you add the catalyst. Put exactly one ounce of paste into a mixing cup and add the tints a drop at a time. Keep track of the number of drops of each tint. When the color looks close in the cup, touch a drop of the mix onto the hull. Make needed adjustments until you are satisfied with the match — don't expect perfection--then write down the formula so you can duplicate it for the rest of the paste.Never try to repair a scratch by simply painting over it with gelcoat. Gelcoat resin is too thin to fill a scratch and gelcoat paste is too thick. Instead of penetrating scratches, gelcoat paste will bridge them, leaving a void in the repair. To get a permanent repair, draw the corner of a scraper or screwdriver down the scratch to open it into a wide V.The hardener for gelcoat is the same as for any polyester resin--methyl ethyl ketone peroxide, or MEKP. Gelcoat resin usually requires 1 to 2 percent of hardener by volume (follow the manufacturer's instructions).

As a general rule, four drops of hardener will catalyze 1 ounce of resin at 1 percent. The mix shouldn't kick (start to harden) in less than 30 minutes. Hardening in about two hours is probably ideal. Always err on the side of too little hardener. Also be certain to stir in the hardener thoroughly; if you fail to catalyze every bit of the resin, parts of the repair will be undercured.Work the gelcoat paste into the scratch with a flexible plastic spreader. Let the putty bulge a little behind the spreader; polyester resin shrinks slightly as it cures, and you're going to sand the patch anyway. Just don't let it bulge too much or you'll make extra work for yourself.Scrape up any excess paste beyond the patch area.Gelcoat will not fully cure in air. To seal the surface of a scratch repair, cover it with a sheet of plastic film. The kit may include sealing film. Otherwise a section of kitchen "zipper" bag works especially well because it tends to remain smooth and the gelcoat will not adhere to it.

Tape one edge of the plastic to the surface just beyond the repair, then smooth the plastic onto the gelcoat and tape down the remaining sides.After 24 hours, peel away the plastic. The amount of sanding required will depend on how smoothly you applied the gelcoat.A 5 1/2-inch length of 1 x 2 makes a convenient sanding block for a scratch repair. Wrap the block with a quarter sheet of 150-grit paper. Use the edge of the block to confine your sanding to the new gelcoat. Use short strokes, taking care that the paper is sanding only the patch and not the surrounding surface. Never do this initial sanding without a block backing the paper.When the new gelcoat is flush, put 220-grit wet-or-dry paper on your block and wet sand the repair, this time with your block flat. Use a circular motion and keep a trickle of water running on the sanding area. Feather the repair into the old gelcoat until your fingertips cannot detect a ridge. If the hull is curved, take care not to sand the repair flat.Abandon the block and switch to 400-grit wet-or-dry paper.