Update: My duracoated LCP, three years later Aug 24th 2015 Christopher Eger In the summer of 2012, I picked up my first Ruger LCP (I have three now, the first step is admitting you have a problem) and, afraid of the prospects for rust due to how I carry, got it coated. Now on the three-year anniversary, I have an update. The problemSo I carry a back-up gun from time to time in my line of work. Occasionally in street clothes as a normal CCW practitioner, I also sometimes cannot carry a full-sized handgun comfortably without printing, especially in summer. This leaves me with one of the best compact .380s of the past few years, the Ruger LCP, as my go-to BUG or CCW choice. (My factory new LCP, three years ago)However, one slight issue with the pistol is the common complaint that the LCP's slide can often turn to a rusty mess over time. The fact that I live in a near-tropical environment on the Gulf Coast where shorts and flip-flops are common Christmas attire, and the LCP lives in ankle, pocket and IWB holsters can only add to this problem.

With this in mind, I decided to rustproof my LCP permanently. The solutionI got with a buddy of mine, Dan Harvala and we decided on DuraCoat. Long story short, DuraCoat is a two part chemical coating that is sprayed on by airbrush, conventional spray gun, or HVLP spray gun, depending on the user's preference. The company says that the coating, like fine wine, gets better with age. LCW states simply that, "DuraCoat wears in, not out."Most important to me, LCW proudly states that properly DuraCoat'ed firearms will not rust in a salt environment. "One of DuraCoat's attributes is its extreme ability to resist salt corrosion. With that in mind, I went for a DuraCoated LCP. Dan quoted the slide as $25 to get done since it was so small but when I arrived, we came to an agreement for $50 for the whole gun, frame, and all and I covered the results at the time in an article on our sister forum, Firearms Talk (Ruger Talk was still unborn at the time). Freshly Duracoated, late August 2012I dug it and started carrying it as a BUG and, when attending low-key events where a very compact gun was all I could get away due to the heat and wardrobe choices, my main carry piece.

Now, three years to the week later, let us look. +36 months on Overall, I have to admit, I am impressed. I was thinking the gun would need to be redone in a year or two of near everyday carry. However, that's not the case. In the past ~1100 days or so, I have carried this particular LCP usually about 4-5 days a week, either in a Desantis gunhide summer heat holster as an IWB in the small of the back, or in pocket carry in a Bianchi nylon or Bianchi 152 Pocket Piece.That translates into something on the order of ~700 days carry, arguably most of the time in the pocket mode, which protects the gun rather well from the elements (except for swamp gas). Its gone hiking a number of times, camping, and fishing all in a saltwater environment. Shooting wise, I've qualified with this particular little LCP every quarter in addition to by regular sidearm, shotgun et. al, putting 50 rounds through it, which at this point adds up to something like 600 rounds. My now fawn-colored LCP on my very well-worn fifty-year-old copy of William Manchester's 400,000-word epic, The Arms of Krupp 1587-1968The only wear I can find is a few nicks around the front end of the gun and overall the finish has gotten visibly darker.

When it first was coated, it was almost a light sand color and now is closer to the fawn of deer hide. I've had to darken the front sight reference hump 3-4 times with a sharpie in the same period, and it looks like it needs it again. One of these days I'm gonna get night sites added. One of these days...I've used Ballistol and military-grade CLP as a cleaner-lubricant-protectant exclusively during that time and haven't had any issues with either eating the coating away. As far as handling, I have to admit, the LCP needed a good going over with sandpaper on the rails and contact points after I got it back from Dan as the coating gummed up and jammed the pistol after the first round. air purifier bulu kucingHowever, after a little love it's all good. rainmate air purifier buyCuriously, it only started doing this after about 100 rounds. therapure 240 air purifier review

I guess it had to get dirty enough (or hot enough?) to let the finish cause issues. As for Dan, I'd love to get him to coat some more stuff, but he got out of the biz and moved to Wisconsin to work for a defense contractor. At least I don't need him to touch anything up though... duracoat, lcp duracoat, lcp cerakote, lcp rust proof, lcp rust All gun porn pics Post a picture...any picture! Minneapolis stabber @20 feet The other day I looked at a used gp100 stainless with. A. 5 inch barrel The Never Ending Thread Comment on user above you ! Crimson Trace knock off laserIf your interested in priming Mdf, and what mdf primer to buy, along with painting or priming Mdf materials, then scroll down to those titles below.Otherwise by reading this entire page I hope a little more information about Mdf primer, Mdf priming and Mdf painting.There are a few schools of thought in relation to Mdf painting so below are descriptions of the recommended , tools and products to use.

You'll also find regarding the best way to coat your Mdf projects. Mdf is the most popular kind of fiber board but there are others for you to choose from.Hdf (high density) board is also made but the higher the density the better the finish and with that better finish comes more cost.For most of the projects one would do "mdf" will work just fine. ldf (low density) fiber board is commonly used as a floor underlay. WHAT’S GOOD ABOUT MDFOne of the advantages regardless of painting or priming Mdf is its density and with density comes no grain. When you add these two features together the woods surface ends up being smooth and unblemished when coated properly.Other strong points for using Mdf would be its lower cost, ease of use when cutting and stiff sturdy properties if used in building cabinets or shelves.WHAT’S BAD ABOUT MDFThere are disadvantages when painting or priming Mdf or using any type of fiber board. Number one is most but not all Mdf is made with a substance called urea formaldehyde.

Proper ventilation, face masks and goggles should be worn (due to the dust) when sanding, shaping or cutting Mdf. A mask should especially be worn when using an electric type machine to do any of the above mentioned jobs. Gasing off of the formaldehyde is also a concern. It's always good to check with your Mdf supplier as to how the product can be used. Some Mdf projects (depending on the boards formulation) may not be advisable (e.g, a childs bed).Also, when painting or priming Mdf be sure to cover the entire wood surface with at least three (or more) coats of non-toxic paint (discussed below).Smaller irritations with Mdf may include dulling of tool blades (because of the glue), its excessive weight and tendency to split, chip, or bend along with raising of the surface when nailing or screwing.PAINTING & PRIMING MDF PROBLEMSEven with Mdf being one of the best types of wood products to paint problems can arise when coating its surface. Moisture in the wood is one such issue causing painted areas to crack, bubble or lift.

Having a dust free clean board is also important. Keep in mind to that edges of Mdf tend to absorb coatings more readily than the flat or top and bottom of the wood.Applying two coats of primer onto an entire Mdf piece (with emphases on the edges) will, in most cases, solve the problem.Another thing to consider, if you're looking for an ultra smooth finish, is to sand the surface, (120 grit paper) prime then sand again. If the feel of your wood is not to your liking sand and re-prime until your satisfied with the final look and feel. With that said, in some situations you can't make a silk purse out of a pigs ear.MDF PRIMING & PANTING PRODUCTSAlmost any type of coating can be used for your Mdf project. Products that seal the wood such as primer followed by paint for instance as opposed to stain or a danish oil work the best.Wood stains will do the job though. Be sure to cover your stain with clear coats like polyurethane or a Varathane top coat to finish your project.Most recommendations when coating Mdf are for two applications of oil or alkyd primer and then oil finish coatings.

A sprayed coat of colored lacquer will give the most professional finish but I find for most of the projects I do waterborne or a very high grade (low or no VOC) latex is my preferred option. It has easy cleanup, durability and shows a beautiful finish when completed.HOW TO MDF PRIMING & PAINTING ADVICEFirst thing to consider when painting Mdf, is to have a clean, sanded, dry and dust free piece of wood. If you're looking for the ultimate finish spray on colored lacquer, otherwise apply two coats of kilz or binz (don't forget the edges) then use the best (low voc) alkyd (oil) base paint you can find.Sand the wood and re-prime if needed. Feel the surface before you decide to add the final coating. If your wood is rough, prime it again, re-sand, feel, then apply the last paint coat.When I paint Mdf a good latex wood primer works fine, then I sand the surface. Sometimes I re-prime then sand again. In most cases, though I spray on two coats of high quality waterborne paint after the first coat of primer (sanding between coats).

If I'm doing closet shelves for instance, three coats (extra for the edges) of a good quality waterborne or a top of the line latex product works fine for me.PAINT/PRIMING MDF COATING PROUCTSUsing a paint sprayer, such as an HVLP painting system, will give you, by far, the best finish. I have also sprayed doors and shelving with an Airless (the contractors work horse), having excellent results. Airless sprayers are great for Mdf just be sure to use the correct spray tip size. I like a smaller sized tip such as the 209 or 211, it is slower and will plug often (if you don't strain your paint) but results in little or no sags and runs. A 311 or 313 tip works fine too if you need to go faster (be attentive of causing runs though).Here's the pages to learn how to spray with an airless along with some (perhaps) much neededThere will be people who don't want to use a paint sprayer and their project is to big for spray cans (bombs). When this is the case brushing (if needed) and a very low napped (less fluffy) type roller, will give you a more than adequate Mdf paint job.