GGS1 - Grex Airbrush Grip Set The Grex airbrush grip is an innovative accessory for any ordinary airbrush that provides better handling, control and comfort. Features:- Increases holding area of airbrush to provide better handling, control and comfort.- Reduces hand cramps and fatigue for increased painting time.- Lightweight durable plastic grip adds strength without a lot of extra weight.- Simple three piece set easily and quickly installs onto airbrush.- Fits all Grex airbrushes and most popular airbrush brands/models.- Ideal for airbrush users with chronic hand problems such as arthritis.- Can help make using an airbrush easier for novices. Specifications:Type:AccessoryWeight:0.53 oz. (15g) includes Grip and Valve ExtensionHeight:3.0" (7.6cm)Length:5.5" (14cm)Width:0.75" (1.9cm) Fits the following Grex airbrushes: Grex Grip Airbrush Compatibility: The Grex GGS1 Airbrush Grip can fit most airbrushes that are NOT bottom fed. Listed below are popular airbrush brands that can accomodate the GGS1.

This is by no means a comprehensive list, but we will continue to update it as new brushes are introduced or changed. Due to their larger body sizes, the GGS1 will not fit:Omni, Vega, and Paasche airbrushes. All names and trademarks are the property of their respective owners. © 1996-2016 Grex Airbrush. The green and black color scheme is a trademark of Grex.post #1 of 19 (permalink) post #2 of 19 (permalink) The airbrush is blocked somewhere still. It could be anywhere from the tip to the paint intake. Most dual action airbrushes are really complex, difficult to clean and maintain. For an airbrush novice, I'd say set it aside and get yourself a really basic single action airbrush to work with for a while, like a Badger. Much easier to clean and maintain and, most importantly, use. If you don't want to go that route, I'd say strip this airbrush down again. Let all but the nylon parts soak in lacquer cleaner for a day or so. Then check the model painting forum here to see if there is any info on cleaning and reassembly and check out the Fine Scale Modeler site for airbrush maintenance.

Most of the time, and possibly now, all you need to do is clean the tip. air duct cleaning services scarboroughThe best way to do that is to carefully remove the tip and head run some dental floss called Super Floss through both. air duct cleaning auburn hills miWith a single action airbrush you can run Super Floss through the whole paint path w/o taking anything apart. honeywell air purifier malaysia distributorPipe cleaner is great for keeping the paint jar and tube clean. I really, really, really don't like messing with my dual action airbrushes (Badger, Paasche and especially Iwata) so I only disassemble them once every few years. Otherwise I just keep them really clean by blowing a paint cup's worth of lacquer cleaner through them (and into a paint booth) after every use.

Also important: virtually no commercially available modelling paint booth meets gov't standards for safety. And many are just total garbage. If you're using a paint booth (absolutely essential with an airbrush) and you can smell paint or lacquer cleaner as you spray, your paint booth isn't working properly and you're in danger. Check the Fine Scale Modeler site to see if they still have instructions on calculating air flow and building your own safe paint booth. Also, if you have a Yahoo ID, by co-incidence a new discussion has begun today on the space modellers group about airbrush recommendations: post #3 of 19 (permalink) You used dish soap instead of paint? Not helpful, I know... post #4 of 19 (permalink) post #5 of 19 (permalink) Photoetched metal, decals, resin, and multimedia parts available at ParaGrafix.biz. Follow us on Facebook and Twitter post #6 of 19 (permalink) post #7 of 19 (permalink) post #8 of 19 (permalink) post #9 of 19 (permalink)

Originally Posted by Fozzie Don't know if you're doing this already or not, but before spraying Future (or any acrylic paint for that matter), spray a little Windex through the brush first, blow it dry, and then immediately after being done spray a couple of tablespoons more, making sure you "backblow" some as described above. Then repeat the process with water. It's important to clean it immediately after being done, every time, and at the highest PSI setting. I don't think anyone else touched on this, another thing you should do is keep the needle lubricated (I use Superlube). This more than anything will prevent tip dry, probably the most common cause of irregular spraying and clogging. I lube mine every couple of sessions. As mentioned, be very sure you DO NOT soak anything that's not metal in the airbrush in lacquer thinner. I'm fairly sure the Paasche VLS doesn't have teflon parts (check the specs on Paasche's website or the manual if unsure)...teflon resists degradation by solvents, one of the main reasons I got an Iwata Eclipse CS.

Even so, teflon is solvent resistant, not solvent proof...continued soaking in lacquer thinner will damage teflon parts over time. I made this mistake with my Iwata that has a rubber(?) o-ring in the piston assembly (that I thought was teflon) and it swelled up and caused "trigger stick", requiring a replacement ($6 for a tiny little rubber ring). Although opinions vary, it's really not necessary (or advisable) to use lacquer thinner to clear out the brush after every session, unless you're using solvent-based paint (that from the folks over at Coast Airbrush). Windex works great for cleaning after using acryls. If you have to use lacquer thinner, wear a respirator and make sure you have adequate ventilation. I have a VL too, and I rarely use it anymore since I got the Iwata...much better airbrush, easier to use, and cleanup is simpler. post #10 of 19 (permalink) post #11 of 19 (permalink) Originally Posted by veedubb67When I had this problem, I called the guys at Coast Airbrush and they never mentioned that.

Are you sure you aren't talking about the needle packing set? All the Eclipses come with the teflon version from the factory now, but like you said the older ones didn't. The O-ring I'm referring to is the packing valve piston O-ring that the trigger sits on...some of the lacquer thinner got down there and swelled that sucker up like an inner tube. post #12 of 19 (permalink) post #13 of 19 (permalink) post #14 of 19 (permalink) Originally Posted by Trekkriffic I got a cleaning kit from Coast Airbrush that has cleaning brushes of various sizes to get into those hard to reach places, and they don't leave behind anything that could potentially clog it, like a pipe cleaner or q-tip. Most of the brushes seem designed for larger commerical paint guns, but the little ones are perfect for airbrushes. Despite my best efforts, I've found I have to disassemble the thing once in a while to totally clean out built-up residue. post #15 of 19 (permalink) Yeah...you have to remove that to get to the o-ring.