If you think your vehicle might have a turbo-related problem, stop before you replace because turbo damage can often be a symptom of an underlying problem rather than the cause itself. A lack of power, noisy performance or excessive smoke or oil consumption could result from a faulty fuel injection system, restricted or blocked air filters, a damaged exhaust system or a lubrication problem. 1. Complete a diagnostic check before you replace your turbo Check that filter, hoses and pipes are clean and in good condition Check that the fuel injection system is in good condition and correctly adjusted Check that the exhaust system, including catalyst and DPF, is not blocked or damaged Check that the pipework and support brackets are not loose or damaged and that the connections are good Check for any leakages or cracks in the intercooler Check that air filters are not restricted or blocked Check that engine oil specifications strictly correspond to car manufacturer’s recommendations

Check that the oil drain pipe is clean and not restricted Check for excessive pressure in engine crankcase and correct function of engine breather system Check that hoses and joints are in good condition Check for lubrication problems in engine block if oil or carbon deposits are found on exhaust manifolds or in the turbine 2. If there is no obvious cause, make sure your turbo specialist completes an extensive troubleshooting program. The causes for turbo damages usually fall into the following four categories: Turbo wheel damage, caused by small objects entering the turbine or compressor housing at high speed, leading to imbalance. Turbo fatigue cracking and material transfer created by metal friction and high temperatures as a result of oil inlet supply restrictions, incorrect gasket placement and use of liquid gaskets or poor quality lubricants. Turbo bearing system damage caused by a high concentration of carbon suspended in oil, created by extended oil change intervals or poor maintenance.

Bearing damage caused by a steel shot suspended in oil following a major engine overhaul. Turbo damage caused by working beyond its designed parameters or outside the vehicle manufacturer's specification. Maintenance problems, engine malfunction or unauthorized performance upgrades can push turbo rotating speeds beyond its operating limits, causing fatigue failure or compressor and turbine wheels. A standard Garrett part number consists of 6 digits before the dash and 4 digits after the dash, followed by “S”. The system will recognize the number with or without the dash. OE AND OES VARIATIONS A standard Aftermarket (IAM) part number always begins with “5” after the dash. The OES part number differs from the IAM part number only in that it does not have the “S” at the end. The OE part number differs from the IAM part number in 2 areas: it begins with “0” after the dash. it does not have the “S” at the end.If you're looking for comfort you can count on,

you've found the right professionals. REVIEW ME ON PORCH Top Englewood HVAC ContractorHow to Solve Beauty ProblemsSummer brings rising temperatures and if you live in a dry, arid climate, an evaporative cooler can help you stay cool and comfortable during the hottest months of the year. Because they lower temperatures by using simple evaporation as opposed to a refrigeration cycle (as commonly employed by traditional air conditioning systems), in ideal conditions, these coolers can be an extremely cost-effective way to beat the heat.air duct cleaning burlington wiUsed by many different cultures since antiquity, one of the earliest forms of this air cooler was invented in Persia. alive air purifier ebayKnown as the wind-catcher, these low-tech devices consisted of wind shafts that were situated atop the roofs of buildings. honeywell air purifier 1500

They would catch wind, pass it through water, and blow cooled air into homes. As a result, temperatures would decrease dramatically, and residents would enjoy cooling comfort during the scorching desert summers. Modern coolers are a bit more technologically advanced, but the cooling method remains the same. Evaporative coolers today often consist of box-like frames that house large, powerful fans. Water-soaked pads are walled  within these frames and are continually soaked by an internal water pump. The fan within the unit then blows hot air through these pads and out through a vent. Thus, temperatures can be reduced by as much as 20° F. Because these air coolers use the method of evaporation to cool areas, they also add moisture to the air, making them only suitable for climates where the humidity levels are low and the air is especially hot. High humidity levels can decrease the cooling efficiency of evaporative coolers, as well as cause excess condensation and even rust and corrosion. 

If you live in an area suitable for an evaporative cooler, this type of cooling device is one of the most cost-effective methods of keeping your area cool. In fact, portable evaporative air coolers incur no installation costs and use approximately one-quarter as much energy as an air conditioner. Just keep in mind that these coolers require a bit more maintenance than air conditioners.These air coolers need water to keep the pads constantly wet; therefore, the water tanks need to be replenished for proper cooling - anywhere from 3 to 15 gallons per day for a typical residential swamp cooler. Moreover, the cooling pads are integral to an evaporative cooler's efficiency. These pads need to be replaced periodically to prevent debris saturation or bacteria growth. In order to prevent problems from arising with your evaporative cooler, proper maintenance and regular inspection is necessary. However, in the event that your evaporative cooler ceases to work properly even after routine maintenance, see if these situations apply to you and follow the corresponding tips before consulting your unit's dealer or a professional: Begin by checking the fuse or breaker for your air cooler.

If the fuse is blown or if the breaker is tripped, replace the fuse or reset the breaker. If the problem persists, inspect the wiring within the unit for damage. This can be due to improper storage prior to operation. When it comes to winterizing your swamp cooler, always remember to completely clean and drain the unit, remove the pads, turn off the water, clean the tank, and keep the unit covered while in storage. Check to see that the water pump is working properly and not clogged. Furthermore, inspect the cooling pads for dry or open spots, as this can hinder your cooler's cooling abilities. Moistening the pads prior to operating your air cooler can help with this problem as well. Make sure there is enough exhaust supplied to the unit, and for units without exhaust ducts, be sure windows and doors are open enough to allow for proper airflow. Generally speaking, most manufacturers will recommended a 2 square foot opening for each 1,000 CFM provided by the air cooler.Odors are often caused by mildew growth on the pads or even stagnant water.