How to Clean the Mass Air Flow Sensor on a Mazda The mass air flow sensor is an integral part that helps your Mazda run efficiently and smoothly. This sensor converts the amount of air flow in the engine compartment into a signal that is then used to calculate how much fuel to use, when to fire the cylinder and when your car will automatically shift the transmission. When they become dirty or clogged, your engine will run rough. You can clean the mass air flow sensor on a Mazda easily, but you must exercise great care in handling the unit to avoid damaging it. Skill level: Moderately Easy Other People Are Reading Things you need Show More 1 Locate your mass air flow sensor. It will be between your intake and fuel injection system. It is most easily recognised by the plastic vent covering its face that will be turned towards the front of the engine. It will also be located on the top side of the engine. Disconnect the wiring harness at the sensor by pulling apart the two black plastic connectors.

2 Using a flathead of Phillips screwdriver (depending on the screw end of the clamp), loosen the clamps on the hose that's connected to the sensor, then disconnect the hose. 3 Use a 10 mm socket and remove the bolt holding the sensor casing to the housing. 4 Carefully pull the mass air flow sensor from the housing. Attach a small spray straw to a can of CRC cleaner and spray the sensor. fresh breeze uv air purifiers reviewBe careful not to come closer than an inch to the sensor, and make sure you spray through the vent cover as well. paint gun cleaner recyclerSpray all the parts of the sensor repeatedly--about 15 times--to make sure they are cleaned well. air duct cleaning davie fl5 Re-install your mass air flow sensor into the housing and reattach the plastic cover, hose and wiring harness.

Mass Air Flow Sensors Filter: All types Articles Slideshows Videos Sort: Most relevant Most popular Most recent No articles available No slideshows available No videos available PresSura Cleanroom Pressure Controllers 8631-CRC The PresSura™ Cleanroom Pressure Controller Model 8631-CRC is designed to maintain a constant pressure differential in cleanrooms. The 8631-CRC measures the actual room pressure differential using TSI’s unique bi-directional pressure sensor. It modulates the exhaust dampers or variable frequency drive to maintain the proper pressure differential. The 8631-CRC can also control the supply air to a constant volume, ensuring proper ventilation of the clean room. If the pressure differential is too great, too small, or the wrong direction, the 8631-CRC will activate audible and visual alarms. An adjustable alarm delay avoids nuisance alarms when a door is opened. The 8631-CRC easily integrates to the building management system, using LonWorks®, an analog output of the measured pressure differential and alarm relays.

Maintaining pressure differential called for in Good Manufacturing Practices Direct pressure measurement provides continuous monitoring Constant volume control of supply ensures proper ventilation Second pressure sensor input monitors air lock-corridor pressure differential Audible and visual alarms warn staff of unsafe conditions Convenient keypad and display support local programming Passwords prevent unauthorized access to monitor functions Flush-mount thermal pressure sensor assembly Controller output cable, 25 ft Transformer, 120:24 VAC, 25 VA Transformer cable, 25 ft Venturi Valve Pressure-Independent Device Fast Acting Electric Actuator 800380 '04-'08 F-150 Tech Folder (Repairs, Tips, Tricks, and Helpful info) For all you "Edge heads!" Edge Owners Tuning Thread: Need Help removing the Rear seat and finding your "lost" keyless entry code? Try Here: Easy Rear Seat Removal For 2004 - 2008 F-150 .: Articles

IWE and solenoid related issues (4WD): /forums/80...-solenoid.html (Courtesy of user: Mattd17)/forums/83...then-some.html (Courtesy of user: xjcamaro89) Need help Diagnosing the Brake switch or shifter interlock? You can start here at this thread: A decent info thread on a Pwr window and keyless entry with a tach and Vacuum gauge install (Courtesy of Chris Adams): (more threads of these topics to follow) Needing to add a Sirius or I-Pod jack.... PATS Thread - Program Your Own Keys & Other Useful PATS Info (Courtesy of Tylus) further updates will continue... '05 ReCab XL Pw,pwdlk, cruise & more w/139K Chapters / 2004-2010 F150 / 2011 F100 Moderator CelticDevilDog's MAF cleaning thread. Originally Posted by CelticDevilDog I know that this is an incredibly simple process but sometimes I find things easier with pictures. I couldn't find anything like that on this site, there were lots of references to cleaning the MAF and I wanted to clean mine.

I figured I would create a simple tutorial and give back to the community that has helped me so much. Here are the tools you will need: 1) CRC Mass Air Flow Sensor cleaner. Do NOT use break cleaner or anything else that is not designed for electronics. About $8 at a local parts store. 2) Flat head screw driver 3) T-20 Torx bit The MAF is located on the driver's side of the Air filter housing Use the screwdriver to pull the red tab out. It pulls out like a drawer and not up or down like many tabs. Gently pull the connector off the MAF. If this has never been done on your truck before you may need to use the screw driver on the red tab to give you a little more help. It should slide right off. Next, use the T-20 torx bit to remove the two screws holding the MAF to the air filter housing. There is one on the top left of the sensor (shown below) and one on the bottom right of the sensor. Gently pull the sensor out. Be sure to not get any dirt into the air filter housing when you remove the MAF.

Spray the MAF and let it dry for about 10-15 seconds. Do NOT touch the wires in the MAF with anything other than the CRC cleaner. To put it back follow the procedure in reverse order. Cleaning the MAF is a good idea every time you change/oil your air filter as it can get dirty from all the dust and oil that may come through your air filter. If you have any questions or there is more information I can add to this tutorial let me know. The Brotherhood of FTE (click the link) 1999 F150 Lightning: WMS engine, 6lb lower, MB trans, Truetrac, CF d/shaft 1999 PSD F250 SC 4x4: 38R, 225/100 AB's, Terminated, JW trans, OUO Stuff, Tuned by Cody 2000 PSD Excursion 4x4: 38R, JW trans, Tuned by DP-Tuner, MBRP, AFE, V & B code's Never Fry Bacon NAKED! Fuel Pump Driver Module R&R courtesy of tbear853 Link to the post: Originally Posted by tbear853 Just out of curiosity, how sure are you that it needs a new fuel pump? Not saying you are wrong, but you do know there is a device that communicates between the fuel pump and the PCM and it's called a "Fuel Pump Driver Module"?

It's located above the spare over on the left side on the rear side of a semi round crossmember, factory bolted it to the frame. It has an aluminum body and the accumulation of road salts, moisture, etc leads to corosion between the aluminum body of the FPDM and the steel frame rail. Some have found their coroded so badly as to have holes in the back side and in some cases broken in pieces. I removed mine and found only minor corosion, so I cleaned it and then clearcoated it rather well, cleaned and then painted the frame there, and reinstalled it using some home made longer 5 or 6 mm studs I made with long bolts and some spacers to space mine a good 1/4" off the frame. Below are pics of "not good" FPDMs, it's not so rare. These are not mine. Here's Fords answer, note the "standoff kit". That's what I duplicated with longer bolts, threaded a nylock lock nut on, sawed the head off, etc. Programming PATS Keys & Other Useful PATS Info courtesy of Tylus:

Originally Posted by Tylus The following will be covered:1. 2. Purchase a PATS key for "Cheap" 3. Programming a PATS Key 4. Programming a Remote/Fob/Clicker 5. Programming the Door Keypad 6. Using a Fusion Key Instead 1. PATS SystemPATS stands for "Passive Anti-Theft Security". It is Fords answer to car theft. Inside each key, there is a little RFID chip. When properly programmed, your trucks PCM reads and recognizes the RFID inside the key. Without the proper RFID signal, the ignition system WILL NOT WORK. Motor won't even turn over...basically makes the vehicle one big paperweight. This makes it alot harder to steal a late-model Ford. 2. Purchasing a PATS KeyYou have 2 options here.2a) Buy one from the Dealership. Can run $50+ quite easilyI have bought many many PATS keys from $5-10 shipped over the years. 3. Programming a PATS KeyThere are 2 ways to program a PATS key.3a) You have 2 PATS keys that already are programmed = FREEBIE!

3b) You only have 1 PATS key programmed = Costly Unfortunately, you must visit the Dealership, or a properly equipped Locksmith. They will have to connect a special tool to the PCM and perform the key programming for you. Roughly costs $40-50 (1/2 hour labor) for this service. 4. Programming a Remote/Fob/ClickerNo requirements here. Simply have all the clickers with you in the truck and go to town. If you don't have a clicker, eBay is your friend as usual 5. Programming the Door KeypadAgain, super easy to perform...if you have the OEM Factory code. If not, you can visit the Dealership and drop some $$$...or look on the rear wall of the cab. There is a lock control module with the code printed on a white sticker. here is a link."Easy" way to Remove your backseat 6. Using a Fusion KeySo if you are like me, the key + clicker can be somewhat cumbersome. luckily, the Ford Fusion key/clicker will work with our trucks. It is a combo unit that uses the same key & clicker frequencies.