AIR MILES® Reward Miles *This product is a special order item and available to purchase online or by speaking to an associate at this selected store. Choose from store pick-up or home delivery. Standard charges apply for home delivery. Shipping & Pick-up Policy | Easily removes dirt, grease and oil Self rinsing on condensate producing coils Can be used for car radiators, lawn mover engines, refrigerators and freeze coils Dimensions & Weights Width: Height: Coordinating ItemsFrost King 15-in x 24-in x… Frost King 13.5-in x 24-in… Related ItemsFrost King ACB80HC 14-5/8-i… Tag This ProductA tag is a keyword assigned to a product which helps describe the item and allows it to be found by other customersAdd a new tag What's this? From: ghg@noose.ecn.purdue.edu (George Goble) Subject: Re: Air Conditioner Midew Spray Date: Mon, 11 Jul 1994 09:33:44 GMT > (John Kalucki) writes: > > My '91 Accord had a very foul mildew'ish odor after the car had been

> > sitting for a while when the air conditioner had been previouslyThe smell went away pretty quickly after I started driving or > > turned on the air conditioner. >Why, after 30+ years of automotive AC, hasn't this problem been solvedBuilding HVAC doesn't have this problem... Building HVAC does have this problem sometimes.. Problem is fungus growing in moist areas. If the ducts and evaporator are wet for 3weeks/month.. just like in showers, etc. One has to either dry it out now and then (run on Vent only with compressor off), or try to fight it with spraying Lysol in the intake (use normal setting instead of max as this sucks in air from the outside).. spraying, immed shut it off so Lysol stays in ducts overnight. From: John De Armond Subject: Re: Mold in the A/C. Date: Tue, 17 Jul 2007 03:01:48 -0400 >We've had a tremendously high mold count since the floods in eastern Kansas. >We now have a nice blast of mold smell each time the a/c unit comes on in

What is an effective way to rid the system of this? >highly sensitive to mold and we spend a lot of time in this unit. Take the AC unit apart enough to get to the evaporator. evaporator, the water tray and anywhere else mold might grow with a bleach solution.ionic pro turbo air purifier manual About 1 part bleach to 3 or 4 parts water, not critical. best air purifier hazePut it in a spray bottleair duct cleaning san ramon ca and add just a speck of bleach-compatible laundry detergent as a wetting agent to help it penetrate the mold. Wet everything down well, let it soak, repeat, thenFollow that by cleaning away the little dead mold bodies and dirt with airI think I saw coil cleaner at Lowe's awhile back.

any HVAC or appliance parts supply house will have the stuff. If coil cleaner is hard to come by, use any of the many varieties of alkaline purpleCastrol's Purple Power* is one commonly found at Wallyworld and*not sure whether it's Castrol's brand but am sure about the PurpleOne of the best formulations (and the cheapest) is called Purple Stuff made by the Luther Chemical Company. Purple stuff requires a lot more water to rinse away than coil cleaner so I'd consider it a second choice. It must be completely removed or the caustic soda in the formula may corrode the aluminum parts. If you want to do THE BEST job of cleaning the coils, follow the coil cleaner with a blast from a pressure washer. Blast AGAINST the air flow. This requires that you mask over the openings to the RV to prevent water ingress. The pressure washer does such a good job that it is the usual method I use. Date: Tue, 17 Jul 2007 14:57:10 -0400 On Tue, 17 Jul 2007 07:51:21 -0400, Lee wrote:

>>Follow that by cleaning away the little dead mold bodies and dirt with air >> conditioner coil cleaner. >> any HVAC or appliance parts supply house will have the stuff. >I will assume then that the coil cleaner and the other products you >mentioned would have no effect on a rubber roof or must you have water >running while using these products? Stuck that post in my Hold file! There are no petroleum distillates in the cleaners so I'd not expect any effects onI'd still have water running over my roof if it were either rubber or aluminum just as a general precaution. Coil cleaner is simply strong detergent and either an acid or alkaline base. Generally an acid base is preferred for coils unless they are clogged with grease, say, from a condensing unit sitting near a restaurant greaseThen the alkaline cleaner works better because it saponifies theThe acid base dissolves lime and other mineral buildup that results from condensate being evaporated on the condenser.

Purple stuff is strongly alkaline and is the most amazing grease cutter I've everSpray it on that greasy black crud that collects on charcoal grills and the stuff just runs off. It's better than Gunk for degreasing engines. corrode aluminum so don't let it dry on anything. Purple stuff is also an excellent black streak remover, though I'm hesitant toIt leaves the paint surface so devoid of protective coating that unless it is immediately waxed, it will oxidize. One MUST immediately apply wax as soon as the paint is dry. 6 posts, read 90,486 times 672 posts, read 1,373,906 times Originally Posted by talison I had my a/c guy out just 2 weeks ago and he used pressurized air to blow the clog out. So far so good. My guess is the whole clog isn't coming out with the water flushes and vacuuming. 25,715 posts, read 36,262,004 times 40 posts, read 135,197 times 1,543 posts, read 4,249,134 times Your HVAC unit should have a primary condensate drain line that is draining into the homes plumbing system at some point and not outside into the open.

The secondary line is what would drain outside to the open and is used only if the primary line is blocked or over-run with condensation. Many units will place a unit cutoff switch either at the secondary drain line or as a third line of defense to prevent condensation from flooding outside of the unit. On older installations, older homes, you might have the primary draining out to the outside in the open as that was common. Is your home older? Is the primary drain line actually the one you are working on and not the secondary? If your primary does drain to the plumbing drain at some point, and your clearing the secondary, then you will need to find where the primary is draining and clear a potential clogg there. Many times the primary is sent to a bathroom vanity sink drain, a laundry drain, or some other visible location. 8,921 posts, read 33,173,370 times SInce the unit in question is on the third floor- is it a down draft unit? is the evaporator above the plenum (does the air blow down)?

Units with this configuration don't have drip pans with auxiliary drain-lines. They rely on devices that detect the water level. But, I'm guessing not- and I suspect that you probably have a drain grade problem. The primary condensate line has a dip in it that is preventing the gravity flow of the water. As far as cleaning condensate lines compressed air is the most widely used "repair" today. Though this isn't the everyday tool for the common H/O it's definitely easier to handle than a compressor, hose, adaptor, etc. Look for the Charles Gallo Drain Gun, it uses the small CO2 cartridges. And as far as the IRC (International Residential Code) goes: These are the two main codes that deal with condensate-Condensate from all cooling coils or evaporators shall be conveyed from the drain pan outlet to an approved place of disposal. Such piping shall maintain a minimum horizontal slope in the direction of discharge of not less than 1/8 unit vertical in 12 units horizontal (1-percent slope).

Condensate shall not discharge into a street, alley or other areas where it would cause a nuisance. M1411.3.1 Auxiliary and secondary drain systems. In addition to the requirements of Section M1411.3, a secondary drain or auxiliary drain pan shall be required for each cooling or evaporator coil where damage to any building components will occur as a result of overflow from the equipment drain pan or stoppage in the condensate drain piping. Drain piping shall be a minimum of 3/4-inch (19 mm) nominal pipe size. One of the following methods shall be used: 1. An auxiliary drain pan with a separate drain shall be installed under the coils on which condensation will occur. The auxiliary pan drain shall discharge to a conspicuous point of disposal to alert occupants in the event of a stoppage of the primary drain. The pan shall have a minimum depth of 1.5 inches (38 mm), shall not be less than 3 inches (76 mm) larger than the unit or the coil dimensions in width and length and shall be constructed of corrosion-resistant material.

Galvanized sheet steel pans shall have a minimum thickness of not less than 0.0236-inch (0.6010 mm) (No. 24 Gage). Nonmetallic pans shall have a minimum thickness of not less than 0.0625 inch (1.6 mm). 2. A separate overflow drain line shall be connected to the drain pan installed with the equipment. This overflow drain shall discharge to a conspicuous point of disposal to alert occupants in the event of a stoppage of the primary drain. The overflow drain line shall connect to the drain pan at a higher level than the primary drain connection. 3. An auxiliary drain pan without a separate drain line shall be installed under the coils on which condensation will occur. This pan shall be equipped with a water level detection device conforming to UL 508 that will shut off the equipment served prior to overflow of the pan. The pan shall be equipped with a fitting to allow for drainage. The auxiliary drain pan shall be constructed in accordance with Item 1 of this section. 4. A water level detection device conforming to UL 508 shall be installed that will shut off the equipment served in the event that the primary drain is blocked.

The device shall be installed in the primary drain line, the overflow drain line or the equipment-supplied drain pan, located at a point higher than the primary drain line connection and below the overflow rim of such pan. As escanlan pointed out- primaries were sometimes connected to the DWV (Drain, Waste, Vent) system of a house. That was before there were codes forbidding such practice- and or lazy-ass HVAC installers. Anyway, from a technical aspect that type of connection would be called an indirect connection. It have to be on the top-side of a trap. 4,924 posts, read 5,326,650 times Yep, it's something that people have done. To do a true cleaning on the coils they'll have to evacuate the system of freon, pull the coil out, and hit it with muriatic acid and high pressure water. Then they have to put the coil back in, reconnect the lines, and charge it up again. It's been about 20 years since I worked on appliances, but from what I remember it's not a fun job. In the late 80's we charged around $250 to do it (in backwoods Mississippi), so depending on where you are I'd say the $500 isn't too far out of the ballpark.