Our thermostat died yesterday, but after replacing the dead batteries with fresh batteries, and confirming the LCD screen was operable, our AC no longer turns on. I have attempted a factory reset on the thermostat, and I do hear a quiet but definitive "click" when I believe it is attempting to activate the HVAC unit, but that's as far as it gets. One theory I have is that the batteries were long dead, and the thermostat was getting it's power from the wiring directly, which means it could be the HVAC unit that died. However, it's one of the first times I've had to deal with a HVAC unit personally, so I'm guessing. I reset the breaker a couple times to see if that would do it, but it's a no go (it is clearly marked on my panel with a aluminum bridge between both breakers). Anything else I can try before I call a pro? Sounds like you may not have power from the transformer. You can check this using a multimeter, by testing the voltage between the red R wire and the blue C wire.

You should read somewhere around 24VAC, though depending on the system it could be anywhere from about 6VAC to 30VAC.air duct cleaning lansing il Most thermostats only use the batteries to power the thermostat itself, LED display, programming, date/time, etc. air purifier to remove cat odorThermostats with a C wire (like yours seems to have), sometimes only use the batteries to remember your settings during a power outage. clean air car check hobart indianaThe actual power for signalling heat/cool, is supplied by a transformer in the furnace itself (the red R wire). If there is no power on the R wire, the thermostat has no way to call for heat/cool. In this case you'll have to have an HVAC tech troubleshoot, and possibly replace the transformer.

You could use your multimeter to verify the furnace itself is getting power, though this is slightly more dangerous since you'll have to open the service panel on the furnace. This could put you in danger of electrocution, and should be avoided if you are not familiar with HVAC systems. The only other thing I can think for you to check, is to look for a serviceman switch and make sure it's in the ON position. A serviceman switch is a switch on the feed line to the furnace, that allows servicemen to turn the power off to the furnace to service it. It should be located very close to the furnace, and within line of site of the furnaces service panel. If there is line of sight from the furnace service panel to the breaker panel that feed the furnace; or this is an old installation, you may not have a serviceman's switch. Your best bet, is to simply call in an HVAC technician to service the furnace. So I had the same issue and called my buddy who is a certified HVAC technician and he helped me trouble shoot the problem.

First he had me check to make sure all the wires were secure behind the thermostat, but they were secure. Then he had me take off the panel on the heater/AC Unit and push in the door trigger to see if there were lights. There were lights, which meant that power was going to the unit, just not making it to the thermostat. Then he had me check a fuse on the main circuit board that had the number 3 on it. The fuse was not blown. Next he asked me to check the AC condensation overflow pipe to make sure that there wasn't a clog because if there is a clog the safety valve will cut off power to the thermostat. Sure enough, this was the issue. There was a 1 inch PVC pipe running up along the left out-side of my AC/heater that went down into a water pump that was clogged. I simply unclogged it and the AC cut on immediately. I just had this exact issue. I called the HVAC emergency service number and the technician called me back. He advised to unscrew the bottom of the kill switch or float. There is a yellow wire that leads to it.

Once I drained all the water ,the system turned on instantly. My A/C stopped working because the batteries in my (Honeywell) thermostat needed to be replaced. I replaced them and plugged it back in the wall mount. The A/C still did not work, but the LCD lights were on. I had to remove the face plate and replug it back into the mount. This time I pressed the center of the LCD screen and got it fully connected which turned on the A/C unit. Make sure you put the batteries in right. Don't let the springs fool you like they did me. I put both batteries in with the - (minus) sides on the springs. Put one battery with the + side on the spring. It should show you the + signs on the battery holder. Before anything, try reset button at the furnace itself hidden behind the cover. It's one of those that activates when the cover is on and deactivates when the cover is off. My problem was exactly that. I put brand new Panasonic batteries in my thermostat and it did nothing. However, it worked with the old batteries, one of which was Energizer, and the other was Duracell.

Clearly it takes a stronger battery.I didn't read all the responses, but thought this would help. If your thermostat has a R and Rc, then there has to be a physical wire (jumper) connecting the R and Rc, along with the red wire going into the R slot. I didn't know this, as I inherited the thermostat from a friend. Heat turned on, AC did not. Once I read up, installed the jumper, everything worked fine. Hope this helps someone! Simple trick that fixed my problem. Replace the batteries but put them backwards per direction. It will shut of the lo batt warning then put the batteries correctly. Browse other questions tagged hvac thermostat or ask your own question.Usually leaves our warehouse in 1-2 business days. This item cannot be shipped to Alaska or Hawaii. IP address: 54.190.85.135Time: 2016-09-24T14:03:36ZURL: http://www.youtube.co.id/watch%3Fv%3DPdWPRsapAUU%26feature%3DrelatedDanby Designer 14000 BTU Portable Air Conditioner Description Specifications DimensionsProduct Width46.67 cm18 3/8"Product Depth39.69 cm15 5/8"Product Height76.52 cm30 1/8"WeightShipping Weight41.00kg90.39lb Capacity Loading Capacity14000 BTU700 sq.ft.

Features 14,000 BTU 4-in-1 portable air conditioner Cools up to 700 sq. ft. Environmentally friendly R410A refrigerant Single hose design Removable air filter Electronic controls with remote and LED display Dehumidifier mode with direct drain feature controls humidity in large living spaces 11,000 BTU heater mode Automatic on/off: Have the unit start or stop to meet your schedule Auto Swing Built-in handles and castors allow you to move the unit from room to room easily Fits easily in sliding glass doors, slider and double hung windows Exhaust hose length: 59 1/16" (150 cm) Variable temperature control from 17ºC - 30ºC (62ºF - 86ºF) Downloads Warranty18 month parts and labor coverage with in-home service. Installation and/or yearly maintenance (cleaning) are not covered under warranty. 45 by from 45 by from 55 by from 45 by from 55 by from 35 by from 55 by from 45 by from DPA140HCB1WDD Reviews - page 2 FAQs Why does the pan fill up so quickly when I have it on heat mode? What does automatic mode mean?