How to Make an Ionic Breeze Stop CracklingIt is noiseless and odorless, operating in the background to keep your indoor air clean. People with respiratory ailments such as bronchitis or asthma may find that their breathing improves with the use of such an air purifier. Occasionally, the Ionic Breeze unit may make a crackling sound, which can indicate a malfunction in the unit or merely that it needs cleaning. Turn the power switch to the "OFF" position on the Ionic Breeze and unplug it if you start to hear crackling noises emanating from it. Remove the dirt collection grid from the unit by sliding it out. Turn the Ionic Breeze gently upside down and right side up three to four times. Wipe the collection grid blades with a soft cloth to remove any buildup of dirt and debris. Dampen the soft cloth with water to remove any stubborn dirt left behind on the grid. Let the collection grid dry completely. Reinsert the collection grid by sliding it back into the air purifier until it clicks into place.

Plug in the Ionic Breeze again and turn it on. Listen for any crackling noises. Turn off or move other appliances such as receivers, mobile phones or answering machines away from the Ionic Breeze to prevent electrical interference if the crackling noise is still present. Try plugging the unit into another outlet by itself if there is more crackling. Make sure that you have a grounded outlet, as some older homes may not have grounded outlets. Do not use the Ionic Breeze with an extension cord or electrical plug adapter. Sharper Image: Ionic Breeze Quadra Manual The Ionic Breeze is an electronic air purifier manufactured by The Sharper Image. The appliance creates an electrostatic charge to draw in... Repair Tips for an Ionic Breeze How to Fix a Ionic Breeze That Makes a Spark Sound Instructions for an Ionic Breeze GP Sharper Image Ionic Breeze Instructions Displaying reviews 1-4Great Air Purifier Comment on this review(2 of 2 customers found this review helpful)works Comment on this reviewThis Ionic Breeze mini size air purifier is a life saver.

Comment on this reviewdoes an outstanding job Comment on this reviewDisplaying reviews 1-4Back to top What types of particulate does an air purifier filter? How is air cleaner performance measured? What is an Ionizer? What contributes to poor indoor air quality? Why are air purifiers needed? The air inside many homes often is many times more polluted than outside air. oreck air purifier vocHere are some little known facts about the air inside many homes: The Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) estimates that indoor air pollutant levels may be as many as two to five times higher than the pollutant levels outdoors. moso bag bamboo charcoal natural air purifierIndoor air pollution is one of the top environmental concerns in the country. moso natural air purifying bag canada

Americans spend up to 90 percent of their time indoors. Indoor air pollutants such as tobacco smoke, pollen, mold, dust and animal dander often are associated with asthmatic and allergic reactions in persons. What is a micron? How does an air purifier work? What is washable foam? AHAM is an acronym for the Association of Home Appliance Manufactures. It is an organization that certifies the testing results of home appliances such as refrigerators, room air conditioners, dehumidifiers and room air cleaners. They use outside labs to test products and rate a variety of appliances. What room sizes can an air purifier clean?Turntable just making a crackling sound! February 24, 2013   Subscribe I bought a turntable and the sound is a disaster. I think I should just buy a new stylus but is there anything else obvious I might try first? I've always played vinyl, but on very primitive turntables that required little interference from me. I used to have a Technics automated turntable in the 80s/90s and liked it, so I just got one on ebay.

This is the model: Technics SL-6. I bought one like this, again, cos I like a plug-and-play setup. I am a pretty lo-fi person. I asked the guy selling it if it needed a new stylus, and he said the one fitted hadn't been used that much. I plug it in and this is what it sounds like. (Buried in that noise is Eddie Cochran singing Summertime Blues. Don't worry, it's a very cheap and shitty pressing that is already scratched up a bit - I know enough not to test out this stuff on vinyl I care about.) Can a needle be this fucked up (by the way, I do not know the difference between a needle and a stylus if there is one, if that helps you to calibrate your answer)? I'm quite prepared to order a new stylus and probably will anyway, but is there anything else I can try to make this sound decent? My thoughts about engine rpm and how lugging your motor too often can eventually cause problems for your bike. Hopefully this will offer some insight into what can cause some motors to need a rebuild at 35K miles and other identical engines go 100K miles with few problems.

Harley)submitted by 85 FXR, 48 Pan, 69 Shovel, 08 Road KingIn a thread a few days ago, I made some comments while discussing service contracts and their value that a Harley service manager said to me a few years back something like "most Harley owners never take their engine over 3500rpm". He followed it up with "which is why too many need their bottom end rebuilt way too early". As a young rider, I was always taught that "lugging your engine" (running it at too low an engine rpm) can damage it over time. I'm not talking about low-octane detonation that can burn up pistons, but that's a very real issue in all gasoline motors, bike, car or truck. This is about engine wear and premature bearing failure, leading to an engine rebuild long before it should happen. Lots of people I've spoken to in recent years feel like their motor is going to come apart because the top end of the motor makes a lot of noise at moderate rpm levels. When I lived on the north coast, spending just about every spare moment riding in the hills, I'd see lots and lots of people on heavy Harleys lugging their motors up the hills in 5th and 6th gear, and when I asked some of them about this at gas stations and watering holes, I usually got responses like "it's got the torque

, so why downshift?" and "it sounds like the motor is going to come apart when the engine is running faster, so I just leave it in 6th gear" or things to that effect. Yes, these motors have a lot of torque, and yes they make a lot of top end noise: they're pushrod motors, with aluminum boxes on top (read: lots of moving parts to make noise with a speaker cabinet on top that amplifies internal noise). The thing is, this noise is normal, but the engines don't produce much useful horsepower below 3000rpm, and the engine is working way harder than it has to, pushing a 700-800lb bike uphill at engine speeds below that. Without discussing shaft runout, the shortcomings of pressed flywheel assemblies, and other issues some engines have, here's some thoughts on engine rpm and why you might learn to love your engine while running at higher rpms than you usually do. If /u/Harleydoctor is in the house, I'd love your input. Edits from the original are in [brackets]. Question- > "To clarify - running mostly at low RPMs is damaging?"

Accelerating at too low rpm certainly can be. Doing it every day can cause cumulative damage. Is it guaranteed to? Not any more than running you bike at redline all day long is "guaranteed" to cause your top end to blow up, but it does increase wear on bearing surfaces, an increases the likelihood of such an engine failure considerably. When you accelerate with your engine turning two slowly, two main things happen inside the engine that are less than optimal, causing extra wear, and can eventually damage your motor. Most of the time you're not on the interstate in really flat places, you're accelerating and decelerating as you go from point a to point b. Even if you put your bike on cruise control at 60 in 6th gear, with no acceleration, anytime you go uphill or accelerate to pass someone, you can feel/hear each cylinder firing, and [feel] pulsing acceleration instead of constant roar of higher rpms and constant acceleration pulling you against the handlebars/seat. At this point, your engine is working less efficiently than is optimal.

Downshifting to an engine rpm that is higher [and smoother] accomplishes two things. First, it gets the engine into an rpm range where it's much more efficient, and producing more power, and has to work less hard to move the bike faster, and second, above the engine speed that you cease to feel the individual cylinders firing (about 2500rpms), it is more effective at translating the forces generated during combustion into rotational energy and is much more efficient at getting that energy to the rear wheel. This is the horsepower/torque curve of a 2011 Street Glide, 103" twin cam motor. At 2500 rpm, the engine is producing about 35 horsepower. At 3000 rpm, it's already producing about 50% more power than at 2500, and at 4000 rpm, the engine is producing almost twice the power it produces at 2500 rpm. This means that at 2500 rpm your engine has to work twice as hard to do the same work as it will at 4000 rpm. Harder work means increased wear, plain and simple. But that's not all.

There's another thing happening that causes premature bearing failure. When you feel each engine rotation as you accelerate at low rpm (and yeah, I know it feels cool) that's inconsistent force being applied to the rear wheel, and each time it slacks off for that millisecond, the next oomph of the cylinder firing, puts extra force on the bearing surfaces, as the inertia present in the mass of the bike and rider, [and riding into the wind a speed] resists acceleration. Mild, or low speed acceleration is less stressful than harder acceleration, but your engine always has to overcome the fact that the bike wants to not accelerate. It wants to decelerate or stop due to inertia [and wind resistance]. The engine keeps it moving, and causes it to accelerate in the face of this inertia. Anyway, there's lots of inertia in the motor and heavy bike/rider that wants to not accelerate and not move when those forces work on them. Each time the cylinder fires, the inertia in all of these things resists turning, and the force of the cylinder combustion gets absorbed in the path of least resistance, which means it'll move things wherever they'll go more easily than moving the bike.

When there's a bit of space in each bearing assembly inside the motor and tranny, this means things will move laterally (instead of rotationally), taking up the slack in the bearing, and resulting in an impact on the bearing surfaces inside the motor before the force gets translated into rotational energy that drives the bike. A new engine has tight tolerances, and any impact on the bearing surfaces is minimized. As engines wear a bit, the gap between bearing surfaces and bearings becomes larger, and each combustion cycle transfers more force to the bearing surfaces as impacts instead of to rotational force, when trying to make the bike move faster. An analog would be placing your fist against your buddy's chest and pushing, vs. pulling the fist back a quarter inch, and then an inch or two, and applying the same force to your fist. When pushing, it will move him backward, but not be felt as a punch. This doesn't cause a bruise. Pulling the fist back a tiny bit results in a tiny impact, and not much else.

Pulling your fist back an inch or two, and applying the same force will cause an impact on his chest, and might cause enough damage to form a bruise. A motor that's being forced to work hard at low rpm will cause cause much more wear on the bearing surfaces than an engine turning at faster rpm. When the engine is moving fast enough that you can't feel the individual cylinders firing, the rotating forces of the flywheels, wheels, and the momentum of the bike moving down the road come into play and transfer the force of the cylinder firing much more efficiently into rotational force, rather than expending it as an impact on the bearing surfaces. The top end, compensating sprocket and primary chain on my bike make as much noise as anyone's and it would be disturbing, if I didn't understand that this is normal, and know that my engine is designed to run best between 3000 and 5500 rpm. That noise can be off-putting to a lot of riders, which leads them to shift way too early while accelerating, and over time, the increased wear from this choice can result in premature bearing failure.

Not being bothered by that noise is important if you're gonna get the most out of your bike, and the longest engine life, and it's one reason why I always wear and recommend foam earplugs when riding. Besides, high speed wind noise can and does cause permanent hearing damage. My first 25+ years of riding without plugs has damaged my hearing considerably, which is why I started wearing them in '07 and I don't get on the bike without them now. The added bonus is the top end noise is nowhere near as loud, and if you try this, you'll get a much better idea of how your motor is running, and whether or not anything is wrong when you get up into higher rpms. You'll be surprised at what you find. I welcome input from anyone, but especially if there's professional Harley mechanics in the house. Edit: There's even more info in one of my responses further down the thread, including a website where you can figure out your engine rpm at various speeds in various gears if you enter your year make and model in the appropriate blank spaces.