AHAM Expands Canadian Staff First Sustainability Standard for Household Clothes Drying Appliances Developed AHAM Urges Congress to Reform EPCA Designing your laundry room? Here’s how to choose your appliances Laundry rooms are often multipurpose rooms that are used for storage and pet care in addition to washing and drying. But they’re typically designed around appliances, and appliances are what you should consider first during a laundry room design or remodel.K&N Snowmobile Air Filters & Accessories Many applications available depending on angle, offset or diameter of the air intake Ultra strong molded pliable rubber flanges absorb vibration and allow for secure attachment Flanges can be stretched up to 1/16" (1.5mm) to fit in-between sizes K&N One Year Limited Warranty K&N Air Filters & Filter Accessories for the Snowmobile If you require good clean air and lots of it, K&N universal clamp-on filters are your best bet for improved performance!

Universal in style, K&N snowmobile air filters replace the existing airbox and OEM stock filter. K&N manufactures hundreds of sizes, shapes and lengths to fit virtually any snowmobile. SnowChargers will stop small dirt particles, yet add little restriction to the airflow of your filter. Deflects grass, twigs, rocks and dust you encounter when grass track racing or crossing snowless trails. The SnowCharger is designed to be run dry and can be easily cleaned with K&N Filter Cleaner. The prefilter answer to all the snow that wants to pack down into the pleats of your snowmobile air filter. SnowChargers are silicone treated polyester wraps that repel snow and water. Melting snow just beads off instead of soaking the filters. Snowmobile Air Filters and Filter Wraps by Size Mounting Flange Inside Diameter Snow Charger Part # Mikuni VM36-38 carburetors use filters with a 2-7/16" I.D. flange. Mikuni VM30-34 carburetors use filters with a 2-1/4" I.D. flange.

Mikuni VM40-44 carburetors use filters with a 2-3/4" I.D. flange. K&N Premium Oil Filters for the Snowmobile Designed to be compatible with modern synthetic and synthetic blended oils Synthetic media allows for the higher-flow rates associated with synthetic and synthetic blended oilscar aircon cleaning in pasig Large uniform pleated synthetic filter media provides high-capacity and outstanding filtrationspartan air duct cleaning reviews Protected by a heavy-duty canister and base plate, with a double-rolled sealionic breeze 3.0 silent air purifier manual K&N Wrench-Off® canister oil filters have a 17mm Hex nut to allow for easy-on and easy wrench-off Pre-drilled for safety wire security

Pressure relief valve and anti-drain back valve (where applicable) Pre-Lubed base gasket for easy no mess installation Available with a black or chrome finish K&N Snowmobile Oil Filters'69 Hurst Edition Oldsmobile MuscleCar starts out with a a 1969 Oldsmobile Cutlast, hoping to rebuild it with inspiration from the classic Hurst Edition Oldsmobile. Is THIS your Father's Oldsmobile? Tommy and Rick start a new project, hoping to build it with inspiration from the classic Hurst Edition Oldsmobiles. Also, Year One's Braselton Bash, and the guys do a little paint-mixing wizardry. Sucker Punch Finale & 461 Oldsmobile Motor Build This time the finale of Project Sucker Punch, HorsePower's Buick Century station wagon being built as the ultimate sleeper machine. A 461 turbocharged Pontiac engine goes in along with race-ready transmission and the works, before a payoff on the street. Olds Powder Coat and Quarters The guys get the Oldsmobile blasted, fix some gnarly quarter panels, and talk tech with the best chassis guy in the business.

Also, Flashback takes a look at a super-fine 442. The Oldsmobile gets planted onto the Art Morrison Chassis, and the guys do some customizing on the body including flush-mounting glass and shaving drip rails. Flashback takes a look at a classic Trans Am. Pro Street Dodge Suspension Rick and Tom get a hankerin' for some suspension work. They unbolt, chop, cut, measure, and install a whole new front and rear suspension set-up for the Dodge Dart, including some Pro help with a back-half kit from one of the leaders in the field. Tommy also hand-fabs a steel Spoiler for the Oldsmobile. Oldsmobile Rear Bumper Fab and Floor Pans Tommy shows step-by-step how to do custom metal mods on the Hurst Tribute Oldsmobile's rear bumper, and the guys do engine and tranny mock-up, where they find that some floor modifications have to be made. Tommy and Mank set to work on the Olds Cutlass Hurst Tribute Restomod by making room for an oversized set of custom wheels and tires. Flashback takes a look at a rare Mopar that was built to take the strip by storm, and Mank shows a $20 fix that can be a serious upgrade for your brakes.

Olds Tank Mods & Glass Etching The Oldsmobile Restomod Project's fuel tank requires some modification for a serious fuel pump, and the guys show you how to do it. Tommy does some rust repair on a door that is in need of rescue, then Mank and Tommy do some glass etching, with 3 different ways to personalize the glass on your ride. Custom Firewall and Muscle Car Museum The guys work on getting a completely custom firewall installed on the 1969 Oldsmobile Hurst Tribute Restomod, with help from car builder Brad Starks. Also, Tommy and Mank take a trip to the Great Smoky Mountains to visit one of the nation's Premiere Muscle Car Museums, where they make some rare finds. Window Curtains & Drapes Single Serve Coffee Makers Please enter the registrant's information. AA-Armed Forces of Americas AE-Armed Forces of Europe AP-Armed Forces of PacificIt’s critical to know how to layer properly, use your snow safety gear and navigate terrain during winter backcountry trips.

But just as important is knowing how to proficiently camp in the snow. After all, the more you have your snow-camping system figured out, the more enjoyable—and productive—your adventures will be. This quick list of pro tips will make camping during the harshest season of the year easier, so you can stay out longer. First and foremost, avoid avalanche terrain. Remember, avalanche terrain has three parts: The start zone, path and runout. Be aware of what’s above you and what the consequences would be if a slide were to occur. Camp where it’ll be warmest: Cold air flows downward, settling in low regions; so benches and outcroppings above valley floors will be warmer. Morning sun is helpful, because it’s coldest just before dawn. And south-facing areas offer more light for longer days. Check the trees: Dead branches and those heavily burdened with snow can release, causing injury or harm. Take shelter from the wind. Trees, boulders, or a tarp hung between trees all make great wind buffers.

Look for landmarks: Unique natural features can be critical to later locating your camp in a storm. Camp near running water if you can. Melting snow is fuel intensive, using up to three times the amount required during a summer trip. When you find your site, stomp out a platform in the snow. With your equipment on, stomp down zones for your tent and communal areas. Then let the snow set for 30 minutes to refreeze and harden to make walking around easier. At higher elevations, dig down a foot or two for your tent. This will provide added wind protection against the stronger gusts of the alpine. Or, build a wind wall: Cut bricks out of consolidated snow and stack them at least three feet high and a couple feet past the tent on both sides for extra protection against blowing snow. For starters, bring the right tent: This may be as simple as your durable three-season tent depending on the conditions. However, if you anticipate heavy snow or high winds, choose a four-season or mountaineering tent.

It may be good to brush up on the benefits of single-wall vs. double-wall tents. Place the tent ninety degrees to the wind. This prevents snow from being blown inside your home or from piling up against the door. Face your entrance downhill: If your tent faces uphill, cold air, which flows downward, can enter it. Anchor your tent securely: In loose snow, stakes may not work. MSR’s Blizzard tent stakes are designed for consolidated snow, and can be used as deadman anchors in loose snow. Deadman anchors can also be made of rocks, sticks or gallon-sized plastic baggies filled with snow. To set them, add cord to each of your tent’s stake-out points. Then wrap the line around your chosen anchor (don’t tie a knot, as it can freeze). Bury the anchor 10-12 inches deep. Then pile snow on top and pack it down. The snow will freeze and hold. Pack snow around the bottom of the tent. Snow is a great insulator, and it can add stability in windy conditions. Dig out the space within your vestibules.

Digging about a foot down in both vestibules will make it easier to put boots on, cook, and store gear. Consider using a ground sheet. Moving in your tent can heat up the snow underneath. When that snow refreezes, it can feature sharp, ripping points. Keep as much snow as possible out of the tent. Thoroughly brush clothes and boots off. Keep as much snow and moisture out of the tent as possible to reduce condensation and refreezing. Do not cook in your tent. Stoves give off potentially deadly carbon monoxide, which is odorless. In addition, water vapor from cooking can add to condensation buildup inside your tent. Do not cook in your tent, even if it’s stormy out. If you must, cook in your vestibule with a great amount of cross ventilation. Build your ultimate kitchen outside: Here you can get creative. One tried and true design is the rectangular pit: Dig a hole in the snow that’s 6’ long X 5’ deep X 4’ wide. Leave snow in the middle for a 3’ long X 3’ high X 2’ wide counter top, and snow along the inside walls for 2’ high benches.

Then carve and shape other kitchen features to meet your needs, such as a dedicated stove platform. Line the benches with Therm-a-Rest Z Lite Sol mattresses for warmth and comfort. Throw an A-frame tarp over it all for weatherproof dining. Heavily vent this space if running a stove inside. Or, for a much simpler solution, dig out a small platform in a snow bank for windproof cooking. White gas stoves are best for winter. MSR’s XGK-EX extreme-condition stove is perhaps the world’s most trusted mountaineering stove. In general, liquid-fuel stoves work better in cold weather than canister stoves. This is because canisters lose pressure in cold temps. However, the Reactor and WindBurner stove systems are pressure regulated, allowing them to perform far better than conventional canister stoves in these conditions. If using a canister stove, go with isobutane fuel, and keep canisters warm in your sleeping bag or jacket prior to use. Keep fuel off the snow. The blade of your shovel or an extra pot make a great platform for this.

Eat, even if you’re not hungry. Your appetite drops during cold activities, but you require more calories. Pack meals that are appealing so that you’re more likely to eat—and thus stay warm. Add butter or coconut oil to your meals: This is an easy way to boost calories to fuel your body’s natural furnace. Use snow to clean dishes: A good scrubbing with snow will clean pots and pans of food particles. Eat the particles, drink them or pack them out. Drink often: Just like your appetite, your body won’t always tell you when it’s thirsty. Dry winter air can dehydrate you faster, which can make you colder and lead to fatigue and hypothermia. Dry mouth, dizziness, cramping, confusion, and increased heart rate can be indicators of dehydration. Carry coffee filters to strain particles from melted snow. You don’t want to drink dirt and debris. Build a solar water collector. Find a spot that gets a lot of sun. Dig a valley in the snow about 2 feet across and 1 foot deep.

Line it with a black trash bag and pack clean snow around the edges. The sun will melt the snow, creating your backcountry well. Or, collect running water: Tie a rope around your Drom Bag or water bottle to safely reach the water from a distance. Snowy banks of streams can act as unstable cornices. Treat collected water: Water from streams and lakes may harbor microbiological contaminants that can make you sick. Boiling is the most reliable treatment method in freezing environments. Boil water for at least 1 minute, or 3 minutes above 2000 m. Filters can be damaged by freezing. The exception is MSR’s new Guardian purifier, though it must be fully thawed before use. Chemical treatments take longer in the cold. Preheat the water to 60° Fahrenheit. Insulate your water bottles: A piece of old foam sleeping mattress works great. Or, store your bottle upside. Water freezes from the top down; this way, you’ll have liquid water when it’s time to drink. Mix your water: Sports drinks or lemonade added to your water will cause it to freeze at a lower temperature.

During the day, air out your sleeping bag. Reduce any moisture inside it, which can later freeze. Vent your tent as much as possible. It’s important to avoid tent condensation buildup, which collects inside your tent as your warm body gives off vapor at night. Eat protein or fat before bed: Slowly burning calories will help keep you warmer while you sleep. Exercise before bed: Jumping jacks are a good way to jumpstart your body’s metabolism before tucking in. Keep gear warm inside your bag: Put your boots in a stuff sack and place them inside the foot of your bag. Add socks, the next day’s clothes, and electronics—anything you don’t want to freeze.Your body burns calories keeping a full bladder warm. Holding it will only make you colder. Two mattresses are better than one. Use a closed-cell foam mattress for insulation from the cold ground; then add the NeoAir X-Therm heat-reflecting mattress on top for extra warmth and comfort. Sleep with balaclava & don’t breathe in your bag: Trap in the heat lost through your head, and avoid adding moisture into your sleeping bag.